Driving south from Dunedin, we decided we didn't have time for the entire Southern Scenic Route, but we did head for Nugget Point and its lighthouse. It was a rainy morning, but Nugget Point offers a spectacular introduction to the rugged southern coast. There were lots of seals down on the cliffs, and we saw a penguin, we think -

Our destination: Bluff, the southernmost city on the South Island. We boarded the ferry in Bluff for the hour long trip across the Foyeaux Strait - a tough and bouncy ride for all of us! Tam spent the trip out back while Joe, Sara, and I rode out the waves like we were on a giant coaster.

Stewart Island has about 300 full time residents - we saw just about all of their homes in the main residential area of Oban as we pulled into the harbor. Oban is in Half Moon Bay.

Church Hill overlooks the harbor - there are lots of backpackers and travelers at Stewart Island, but it really is not a hot spot like Queenstown or Rotorua. It is just too remote, since you have to drive all the way to Bluff for the ferry or Invercargill to take the plane.

So, this leaves the island quiet even in the busiest times of the year - we were there in January, summer, and felt like we had most of the place to ourselves.

Our base for the 3 nights was a one-bedroom apartment in the basement of a home overlooking the harbor - a steep walk up, but a wonderful view, and the electric blankets came in handy, because it was cool!

The apt. came with some interesting amenities, like the bathroom/shower, which was in a separate room outside. The water supply in the area is rain, so you need to conserve, and we never did exactly figure out the on-demand gas water heater, which worked more on its own schedule than on our command!

One of the highlights for any trip to Stewart Island is a visit to Ulva Island, a sanctuary for native birds. New Zealand has a huge problem with possums (brought in to create a fur trade), rats (arrivals on ships), and stoats (brought in to reduce the rabbit population). All of these predators have combined to decimate the native birds, especially ground dwellers like the kiwi.

Some off shore islands are far enough away from land, and receive so few visitors, that they have remained pest free. But other islands that have been overrun, like Ulva Island in one of the bays at Stewart Island, have been cleared of rats by extensive trapping and poisoning. Verified as rat free, Ulva Island is now a place where you can wander freely and hear and see lots of birds: wekas, parakeets, bell birds, kakas, saddlebacks, Stewart Island robins, and more. We spent about 5 hours there one day, virtually alone with the birds and the water.

We couldn't get away from the wekas, who followed us all over the beaches. Watch out for your lunches!

The sign when you arrive on Ulva Island (and you can only get there by water taxi) cannot be more clear: you need to check all of your gear for rats. You need to watch out for the poison. You need to check your boat and your belongings for rats again.

All that said, Welcome to Ulva Island!

We loved Stewart Island - the weather is often crummy, it is a long way from anywhere, there isn't much of a nightlife other than a couple of restaurants and a couple of pubs, but it is a terrific part of New Zealand. It's an uncrowded, lush, relaxing place, with walks through dense bush, deserted beaches, heaps of birds, and lovely views across the water. Sweet as -